Category Archive: Personal Narrative

Before I Ran Headlong Into the Firewall, I Loved Beijing

First of all, the subway made sense. Bless Beijing for having the Olympics, because it made our first trip on the metro – from Beijing Central to our stop on Line 2 –… Continue reading

Trans-Mongolian Journey: from Ulaan Baatar to Beijing

We woke to new scenery. After a day of the Gobi (like all deserts seen from a train, beautiful at first, and stultifying after seven hours of exactly the same), the small but… Continue reading

The quirky case of Ulaan Baatar, Mongolia

Tomorrow, I’ll get on the train to Beijing. I’ve been in Ulaan Baatar one less week than originally planned, but about five days too many. I know, I said I liked the city.… Continue reading

My First Meal in Mongolia

This was my first meal in Mongolia. I wasn’t really sure what it was, but this really nice Mongolian kid named Tolgi, who was studying to be an English teacher and who had… Continue reading

Adventure to Lake Baikal’s Olkhon Island (and a really cute kitten)

On the microbus from Irkutsk to Olkhon Island, the Russian men around me seemed to keep talking about the fact that I was a woman traveling alone and, if I guessed right, making… Continue reading

Before Autumn in New York City

The sun was radioactively orange, emerging from the silhouettes of old factories whose destiny within the decade will be live-work lofts. The color felt unreal, only elsewhere available in the artifice of nail… Continue reading

House-Hopping, and an Appreciation of Dish Sets

My friends are amazing. They’ve emailed me out of the blue many times in the last month and a half to say, “Hey, I’m gonna be out of town for X number of… Continue reading

Checklist Travel and Thoughts on Leaving Alice Springs

As you may have noticed, there were a lot of emotions in Alice Springs. A great upwelling of hope, that push at your sternum like the rumblings of first love, a deep despair… Continue reading

Spring Onions, Bacon and Other Stories from Alice Springs

Most tourists don’t come to Alice Springs to be in Alice Springs. For many, it’s just a launching point to get to Uluru (formerly known as Ayers Rock), the massive and ancient swooping… Continue reading

Slowing Down: from Kakadu to the Ghan to Uluru

The day I got on the Ghan in Darwin, I’d been having a rotten morning. I’d woken up at 4am to a shaking and rumbling. My first trained thought was, “Oh, god, an… Continue reading

Round and Round I Go: A Trip in the Kimberley

Somewhere on that burnt red off-road track, after my sleepless and sick night of camping in Broome, when my feet burned from sand fly bites and my stomach burned from Sambuca and smoke,… Continue reading

Broome Adventures: Bouts with the Mozzies

I go to bed cradling a bottle of mosquito spray. I know, it’s come to this. I hold the bottle close at night so that when I wake up at 3am to pinpricks… Continue reading