The Ghan and the Australian Overland Telegraph Line
As I write this, I am back on the train again and it feels almost as if I have come full circle. We’ve got the rad crew, the same ones we had on… Continue reading
We woke to new scenery. After a day of the Gobi (like all deserts seen from a train, beautiful at first, and stultifying after seven hours of exactly the same), the small but… Continue reading
Tomorrow, I’ll get on the train to Beijing. I’ve been in Ulaan Baatar one less week than originally planned, but about five days too many. I know, I said I liked the city.… Continue reading
Do not be fooled. Mongolia may have an average of 280 days of sun a year, but that doesn’t mean you get 280 days of warmth. It is remarkable how beautiful the day… Continue reading
On the microbus from Irkutsk to Olkhon Island, the Russian men around me seemed to keep talking about the fact that I was a woman traveling alone and, if I guessed right, making… Continue reading
The sun was radioactively orange, emerging from the silhouettes of old factories whose destiny within the decade will be live-work lofts. The color felt unreal, only elsewhere available in the artifice of nail… Continue reading
As you may have noticed, there were a lot of emotions in Alice Springs. A great upwelling of hope, that push at your sternum like the rumblings of first love, a deep despair… Continue reading
Somewhere on that burnt red off-road track, after my sleepless and sick night of camping in Broome, when my feet burned from sand fly bites and my stomach burned from Sambuca and smoke,… Continue reading
I’m staying in North Perth, but sadly all I can really tell you about the city is how to get to the Wellington Street Bus Station to catch a train to Midland or… Continue reading
As I write this, I am back on the train again and it feels almost as if I have come full circle. We’ve got the rad crew, the same ones we had on… Continue reading
The first question most travelers ask is, “How long have you been traveling?” The second question is, “How long will you travel?” I once met a guy in Oaxaca who had been traveling… Continue reading
By day four, you’re probably dreaming of chocolate bars or oatmeal raisin cookies. I know I do. I remember within a week of the first time I stopped eating added sugars, I went… Continue reading
One thing you’ll have to think about as you remove sugars from your diet is: what type of sweeteners do I want to stop eating? There are the straight up sugars: corn syrup,… Continue reading
I tried to buy mayonnaise today because my parents’ early-70s hippie split pea recipe calls for it. And you know what? Every mayonnaise at Whole Foods contained either honey or sugar. WTF? Or… Continue reading
I stopped eating sugar a little over a year ago, and persisted with this no-added sugars diet for some six or nine months before I was corrupted by traveling in Australia (where any… Continue reading
First of all, the subway made sense. Bless Beijing for having the Olympics, because it made our first trip on the metro – from Beijing Central to our stop on Line 2 –… Continue reading
This was my first meal in Mongolia. I wasn’t really sure what it was, but this really nice Mongolian kid named Tolgi, who was studying to be an English teacher and who had… Continue reading
Natural food stores all smell the same – vaguely of herbs and essential oils, a bit of Indian spice. If you walk into one, you’ll readily identify the scent. I always had this… Continue reading